Jumpoff Lookout, getting there

Getting to Jumpoff Lookout AND mid sections of the William O. Douglas Trail
With Photos by Jo. N. Miles

Jumpoff Lookout is the last surviving fire Lookout Station in Yakima County.  The 1961 "R-6" flat top building is located at the west end of Jumpoff Ridge, overlooking the Tieton Basin from the east.  The present building replaced an earlier (1930s - 1958) structure which apparently had a cupalo viewing room with a small, lower living quarters. 

The old building is now showing the wear from many winters perched on a high overlook of pillowed basalt.  Jo Miles and I have visited this old lookout several times in the past three years, attempting to stabilize the structure until we "Discover" some way to return it to a working "fire watch" station.  We patched the roof, installed numerous shutters, and cleaned it out a bit.  Other volunteers have repaired the door and attempted to keep it clean. 

Here you can see that the structure is basically intact, minus lightening rod ground cables, and some glass windows.  

Why do I mention Jumpoff now? Well, the William O. Douglas State Trail is to open in June of 2012 and it will pass very near the old lookout.  Because I have been ask by a number of folks , "How do I get there", AND, "Just where is the William O. Douglas Trail", I have decided to create a short posting on this blog answering those questions.   To begin, consult the Yakima Herald, December 20, 1011 for an article by Scott Sandsberry titled, "Blazing a Trail".  This article has a wonderful photo (By Susan Paolelli) taken near Jumpoff, showing the great view into the Tieton Basin and a portion of the  #1126 trail dropping down the old Phone line route toward Jumpoff Meadow via Jumpoff Gap.  This next  photo by Jo Miles is a very similar photo, showing Rimrock Lake, Kloochman Rock, and, in the distance, White Pass. 

In this above photo you can see Jumpoff Meadow at the lower right, Kloochman Rock in the middle left, and Rimrock Lake running west.  That Ridge on the left side of Rimrtock Lake (in this picture, south in  virtual space) is "Frenchman Ridge" and the WOD trail will wander down it's spine, east to west, as it heads for Clear Lake.  The shiny spot in the middle foreground is Lost Lake.  Kloochman Rock is an important chapter in the William O. Douglas book, "Of Men and Mountains". A photo very similar to this, taken near by in the evening  (by Kristin Hiler ) is on the cover of my book about local history and setting.  Titled, "Buckskin Larch and Bedrock" it is available on Amazon.com

And, if you are interested in more wonderful Tieton Basin Photos, you can purchase a companion photo CD by Jo N. Miles titled "The Photos of Buckskin Larch and Bedrock".  It is available at the Yakima Museum, Inklings Books, and Whistl'n Jacks Lodge.  Here is one of my favorite shots in that collection.  This photo is titled, "Tieton Glacial Boulder" and it shows a huge erratic glacial boulder perched on a knoll on the northeast end of Rimrock Lake, seen in the background.  

Jumpoff Lookout is located in Section 1, T.13n. R.14E, W.M.  You can drive there in the summer with a good, stout 4x4, or you can hike there along the William O. Douglas trail.  The trail comes from the east on the Jumpoff Road after connecting to Snow Mt. Ranch over the Hatton Road.  Here is a photo of the area (several miles east of Jumpoff) where the two roads meet.  This photo gives you a good idea of the hike out of Yakima and up Jumpoff Ridge to Jumpoff Lookout.  Here you are looking back east toward Yakima, WA. on a cloudy day.

Same general area, looking back east but on the opposite ridge.  These are wonderful hikes with great views, great clouds, and great trees.  This lonesome Ponderosa Pine is typical of the scattered trees on this ridge top and in the adjacent canyons.  This is a natural tree seeded from others nearby.

As you hike west from Jumpoff you will pass Kloochman Rock.  The present trail will skirt the south end of this massive geologic feature and this is the view you will see looking north, over the top of Kloochman.  Douglas tried to climb the right (east) side, a foolhardy  task at best, but it resulted in a wonderful chapter to his classic book. When I  hiked this area with Drug Czar William Bennet some years ago he had no idea where he was until I mentioned Kloochman Rock which he knew well from Douglas' wonderful book.    

And, on the west side of Kloochman Rock a lonely hiker climbs the craigs made famous by William O. Douglas.   Rimrock Lake in the distance with Frenchmans Ridge to the left.  Is that a Wilderness permit hanging from the pack? 

GETTING THERE: DIRECTIONS FOR VISITING JUMPOFF RIDGE, JUMPOFF LOOKOUT, AND MID SECTIONS OF THE WOD TRAIL:  Right now Jumpoff Lookout Station is managed as a closed building, but the door isn't locked.  Just load a stout 4x4, turn south between the Windy Point Bridges (Highway 12 west of Naches)  on road 1302, and drive 13 miles west.  The road is only suitable for 4x4 vehicles with good clearance and strong tires.  Lots (and lots) of good views and opportunities along the way to stroll around, take pictures, and enjoy the sights.  In section 5, about 4 miles before you get to Jumpoff, you'll see the Hatton road (#641) turn back to the east.  After you cross the cattle guard you have 2 more miles to go and can look for established dispersed camping turnouts.  

There is snow across the road until around July 1 and if you plan to visit before August, take a chain saw to cut out blow-down across the road.  By Aug, generally, the jeepers have cleared the road.  

Sleeping in the building right now is problematic as it is small, there is glass on the floor, some windows might be open, and you could have unexpected visitors.  I'd suggest car/tent camping at one of the hunter camps back to the east, then you can hike either east on the Hatton Road, or west through Louey Gap to Long Lake (trail # 1126), OR down to Jumpoff Meadow along the old phone line trail from Jumpoff Gap.

Jumpoff is 5,745 feet elevation and the views both east and west are great.  The present lookout building was constructed in 1961, replacing an older one.  I think this is the last, surviving fire lookout in Yakima County. Take a Discovery parking pass to park in Game managed land, a litter bag, map, and extra water.  When dispersed camping on National Forest put out your camp fires, pack home litter, and avoid damage to roads and facilities.

And finally, another Photo by Jo N. Miles of a controlled burn in the Tieton Basin.  Fires like this were common before settlement and are an important part in creating, and maintaining the natural setting.  Jumpoff Lookout was once a vital link in identifying wildland fires in this area.   

I want to thank Jo Miles for his photos for this collection.  If you want to see more photos of the area along the new William O. Douglas Trail just stop by the Yakima Museum, Inklings Bookshop, or W'Jacks Lodge for this photo CD titled "the photos of Buckskin Larch and Bedrock".

I want to close this post with one of my favorite photos by Jo Miles.  This photo is along the William O. Douglas trail east of Snow Mt Ranch.  It captures the essence of high, ridge top settings in Yakima County and reminds me of the lonely days I spent on Jumpoff Lookout watching for fires and reading Jack Kerouac.  It has the quiet solitude, the invisible sound of the wind, the hugeness of the sky and the landscape, and the promise of a storm, all wrapped into one great photo.   

Watch this blog for a feature on the Photos of Jo. N. Miles.  I'll be posting that in a week or so. 

Fire Lookouts, an Introduction

Jumpoff Lookout, Yakima County, WA

With photography by Jo. N. Miles and Matt Dahlgreen

Fire Lookout stations once blanketed the Forest Landscape throughout the US.  These stations, placed at sterling observation sites, were used for early detection of forest fires but the "lookout" performed a number of other functions such as radio contact, weather recording, public information, and occasionally were called on to abandon the station and put out a near-by fire.  

I worked on this lookout from 1969 to 1973, with some "relief" work after that.  This station, named appropriately, Jumpoff Lookout, is located on a huge cliff at the east end of the Tieton Basin, with views to the north and up and down the Tieton Basin.  This station hasn't been "staffed" for some time, and though it looks like it's in good shape, you'll see from the next picture, it is suffering from hard wear and vandalism.

Here you can see that some shutters have been destroyed, the cat walk is a bit challenged, and windows are missing.  Jo Miles and I repaired the roof in 2010 and replaced a number of shutters last summer. The most damaging force, other than human vandalism, is the winter weather.  Snow finds cracks in the side, and then melts in the spring, adding to floor rot.  We hope to eventually stabilize this old relic, the last fire lookout in Yakima County, and bring it back as a working lookout.  

Other lookouts in the Washington Cascades includes the one that Jack Kerouac worked in and wrote his book "Desolation Angels" about.  Desolation Lookout is north of the North Cascades Highway, on the east shore of Ross Lake.   Kristin and I Climbed it with Matt and Lisa Dahlgreen and a year later Mike Cochran and I returned with our guide and climbing inspiration, Clare Cochran.   Here are some pictures to give you some idea of what Kerouac saw from his lonely perch. 

First you must depart the Ross Lake Resort in one of their vintage wood motor boats, this is old #1.  After a 1 1/2 hour boat ride you tie up at a little trailhead and start the 5 hour hike to the top.  

As you approach the lookout you are met with amazing views of Mt Hoozamen to the north.  This photo was taken in October, notice the snow is already starting to accumulate.  And, the lookout is shuttered fore the winter.  The nameless Bum-wannabe posing by the station is part of the deal when you get to the lookout. 

And this is what Kerouac saw as he looked back down the lake toward the south. 

I wanted to get a photo of a lookout working but Jack was gone the day we were there.  My cat posed for this photo to demonstrate what lookouts do all day. She has lots of practice 

Another fine old lookout is "Red Top" on Swak Pass.  Mike Cochran worked here for a summer and Ardus Bynum was also one of the many famous lookouts to put in time on this station.  Kristin and I have worked here as Volunteers for a couple of summers and we plan to put in some time this summer, Lookout Gods willing!

Lookouts watch for fires, work the radio, clean the lookout, greet visitors, and other jobs.  Here I am trying to find a fire in the Teanaway.  The far hills is Manashtash ridge and if you look closely at night you might see headlights from Highway 90 between Ellensburg and Cle Elum, WA. 

This is an evening shot, I must be reading or some such?? Opps, a lookout isn't supposed to "junk up" the fire finder" with coffee cups and plates.  You can see our "Kitchen", thats the little shelf with the red and white checkered oil cloth top. 

Here are the two glass insulating stools at Red Top.  They are made from phone insulators and protect the lookout in the event of a lightening storm.  I am making a stool for Jumpoff so keep tuned for that project. 

Kristin has a lot of potential as a fire lookout, as you can see below.  She reads well, enjoys the views, is helpful to visitors, and has a funky hat.  Now, if she could just find a good cup to drink coffee out of. 

Another lookout we have a strong connection to is Gary Snyder's "Sour Dough" Lookout, on Sour Dough Ridge, west of Ross Lake.  We made several attempts on this lookout before we finally got to the top, as it's a long day of hiking, even with a "water taxi" ride to the trailhead.   Last fall we climbed this with Matt and Lisa Dahlgreen.  Matt's positive outlook and general leadership skills made this hike a lot easier.  Thanks Matt!  Here is the station as you approach it from the lake side. 

And this is a close-up.  Maintenance crews are rebuilding the station and doing a bang up job.  Wonder how I can talk them into coming down and working on Jumpoff?  

This photo was taken in October so the station is closed for the season.  From this point you can see Desolation Lookout on up the lake.  

Well, if you are interested in visiting a lookout I'd suggest Jumpoff Lookout.  It is directly adjacent to the new William O. Douglas trail.  You can drive there in a 4x4 (enter from Wendy Point on road 1302: July - October 15 annually)  or hike in from Long Lake or Jumpoff Meadow.  Kristin and I hiked in from the east, walking up to Jumpoff Pass and then taking the old phone line trail on up to the lookout.  Jo and I fixed those broken windows a few weeks later. 

We are now back where we started, looking at Jumpoff Lookout near where the William O. Douglas Trail heads into the Tieton Basin.  Kristin and I wish everyone a happy new year and a great 2012

I am building a Lookout "Lightening insulation stool" for Jumpoff and I'll have a posting on that project as soon I get four, 1 3/16 holes drilled to install the insulator legs.  Watch for that posting in a month or so.  Also, if anyone wants directions to Jumpoff, let me know and I'll be glad to do a posting on that also.

I wish to thank Jo N. Miles for photo related to Jumpoff Lookout, Matt Dahlgreen for photos related to Sour Dough and Desolation Lookouts, and Kristin Hiler for photos related to Red Top Lookout.    

Hats From Drop Spindles

Each winter I spin a few ounces of wool to test my drop spindles.  I'm extremely fortunate that my niece (Leah Spencer) donated a big bag of wonderful alpaca fluff.  Alpaca must be the best all around fiber there is for hand spinning AND,  I now have three colors of alpaca, representing a pen of legendary alpacas in the (almost) North Pole,,,, well, isn't Canada up there near the North Pole somewhere??

Here are two drop spindles (above) with white alpaca yarn.  I spin two spindles as a pair and then ply them into a "two ply yarn".  You can see the white roving that will be spun.  Spinderella, a great bunch of carders in Utah, turned my alpaca fiber into wonderful roving. 

Not all of the yarn I spun last winter is from Alpaca, I also blended, plied, and hybridized yarns to pass on to Pat Moran (Pat's Happy Hats).  You can see here that I keep records of the fiber, weight, length, and blends so Pat will know what she is working with.  This is the "Guellarmo" yarn, from the pen, a legendary Alpaca.   Shelby, can you add more to this story??

Let's start off with Kristin's Guillarmo hat.  See Pat's tag there showing that she certifies the knitting.  I may wear this hat while watching "The View" or listening to Ennhya??

More Guellarmo (below)  with a "Miss Cool" dark band at the bottom.  This hat looks like a classic "Watch hat"and the picture doesn't do it  justice, it's very soft and snuggles down to any size head (within reason).  

This hat is more like a beanie, made with churro and Icelandic wools.  It appears that Matt Dahlgreen is picking up this hat in a few days.  Matt is an old fan of Pat's Hats, I think he owns two of them. 

While I try not to get attached to hats, it was impossible not to feel like just putting this hat on and stalking out in a snow storm.  This yarn was created from a dyed batch of wool given to me by Pattie Kaplan.  Everyone who has seen this beanie loves the colors but they aren't available anymore (I emailed the supplier, she has gone back into customizing cars or something).   

This hat (below) has all kinds of wools, fibers, colors, and etc.  I think it has been spoken for but in any case, it's a beaut.  

Susan Lattomos won this next hat by supplying the most natural fiber to my spinning bag.  Rumor has it  is knitted from yarn spun from some highly exotic Mountain critters.  The hat looks great on Susan but you'll have to wait till I get the picture.  This is truly a unique, one of a kind hat and I've instructed Susan to only wear it to dignified occasions, hikes, Cascadian meetings, receiving awards, and all other appropriate places where the clientale appreciates fine woolery, or in the garden. 

And now for three hats that I want to talk about.  The first one is a huybrid yarn ply of a black wool top donated by Patti Kaplan and plied with Socotta sock yarn.  The socotta is from Plymouth Yarns and is a verigated color, typical of that brand.  I like Socotta because it adds strength and color and uniformity.  This hat is a work hat.  I think Pat Moran knitted it.  

This hat is spun cashmire yarn, plied with a red/yellow Sockotta sock yarn.  Wendy Warren knitted this unique horse shoe pattern.  Wendy, give up mixed media and just knit hats, you're a hat goddess!

And finally, but certainly not the least is a hat knitted by Patti Whitney.  Yes, I know a few people who aren't named Patti, but not many. Patti is a good friend who lives in Santa Fe.  This hat is from Moreno and llama yarn, if I remember correctly.  It is a hat made for the far north, just looking at it makes me start to warm up.  I am holding this hat for a skier who needed as a survival hat and a hat that looks great.  Patti, Care to do another???

Well, that's all the hats for now. I generally reach May 1 with a new pile of yarn, looking for knitters who want to try out hand spun (drop spindle spun) yarns of unique origin.  I want to give particular notice of the above knitters and their art, Pat, Pat, Pat, Pat, Daren, Leah, Wendy, Sally, Les, Guillarmo, etc. .  

Let's see,,, we're going to change course on the next posting.  We are going to Jumpoff Lookout and look at some fire lookout information.  As you know, Jo Miles and I are the stewards of Jumpoff Lookout and we are trying to stabilize it and find a program to put it back to work.  Then, after I get the lookout post completed I'll start working on a "drop spindle" post,,, See you then.  

Garden features

A lot of ceramics ends up as "Garden Features" as a sort of dust bin to the fired clay world.  But I'd have to respond, "What better use of Ceramics objects of all kinds".  First of all, you can hide imperfections on otherwise extrodinary pieces just by sitting them with "blem down".  Second, ceramics looks great in the garden anyway and finally, the tradition of ceramics garden features is one of the oldest in the field of visual arts.  Plus, it's always handy to have a cup or bowl handy when  you are watering.

The cover picture is a failed salt shaker  (as the glaze filled in the shaker holes) but luckily it makes a great pot feature.

Here is a typical garden feature, a stoneware jar with a test tile lid.  The test tile was rounded to see how it would accept red iron oxide slip in a concentrated form.  Iron oxide is a flux of sorts and this this tile makes a compelling lid.

Ceramic sculpture also makes good garden features.  This head protects the top of a tomato stake and watches sentinel over the bleak winter garden

And another face to keep it company

Well, even rocks make good garden features, as they have for eons in the natural setting.  

So much for garden features.  I will create a post on recent hats next.  I usually spin a few ounces of yarn during the winter, to test drop spindles, and "Pat's Happy Hats" knitted up a few hats, just in time for the New years.  Stay tuned.

Equation of the Perception of LIght

This week I want to include a poem that I read at the December Allied Arts reading.  What a great excuse to post some cup photos to spruce up the page!

THE EQUATION OF THE PERCEPTION OF LIGHT

 “Writing is a search for the meaning that writing itself violently expels“, Octavio Paz (The Monkey Grammarian, p 133)

“Eight times out of Ten”

Is five words

Is eight words

Is 11 words

And so on.

“And so on” is three words.

Words are the spring trap

That we load with meaning

End on end, the fractal melody

Of ourselves as we grasp for

The promise of our senses.

On and on

Throughout that Cardinal moment

As we emerge

From the shadows of meaning

And bend the patient

  Aura of ourselves.

A mountain,

A river,

A branch of light

All ask the question of

Where we stand against the time

It takes to get there

With no reference.

Therefore,

The shadow of a mountain

Offers hope,

And the rendering

of the many forms of water

gives us comfort. 

“We” is one word

       out of context

but each of us is rain

as it slides to the sea.   

More postings by the end of the week, hope it happens!